STYLE // New York Fashion Week S/S 16

Tuesday, 22 September 2015

Fashion month is once again finally upon us, with hundreds of designers showcasing their visions for Spring/Summer 2016 in the four major cities. First stop was New York, of course, where Alexander Wang celebrated his 10th anniversary collection and DKNY saw the dawn of a new era with its first season without Donna Karan at the helm. Kanye West's much talked about Yeezy Season 2 didn't seem to convince, reaffirming his status as a egotistical jack-of-all-trades (particularly after he's apparently also decided to run for President now). Every season, I get very excited about some collections in particular and being a blogger gives me my own little plot of the internet to wax lyrical about them. So I'm going to be sharing my thoughts on those collections with you, including my top looks from each. Here are my picks from the big apple:

Marc Jacobs (pictured above) gave us a dazzling spectacle this season, held in New York's Ziegfeld theatre. The #MarcJacobsPremiere saw models pose for photographs before walking the red carpet into the venue, as if the fashion show were an actual movie premiere. The collection itself was very much inspired by the silver screen too, with some garments printed with the famous shower scene in Alfred Hitchcock's Psycho. There was certainly no shortage of stars or sequins either, with Emily Ratajkowski in a glitzy sailor suit and The Gossip's Beth Ditto walking the show in an embellished off-the-shoulder gown with a giant feather stole. The bold red, white and blue colour palette exaggerated the Americana influences of the clothes, which included a few varsity jackets and a lot of denim, with many pieces covered in kitschy patches and pins. My favourite look of the whole show was a heavily fringed knit worn over a candy-striped bralet and frayed blue denim maxi skirt, covered in embroidered patches.

3.1 Phillip Lim was another designer celebrating a 10th anniversary show this New York Fashion Week. The catwalk was surrounded by piles of dirt, which I heard somewhere that his team had made by composting all of their own food waste at home. The collection, compiled of mostly delicate silky fabrics, seemed to create a juxtaposition between masculinity and femininity. Sporty silhouettes in olive green, sky blue, tan and beige, using appliqué floral motifs and prints. High waisted paperbag waists were a big deal here, as were leather biker jackets and bandeau crops. There were also a couple of deconstructed takes on pinstripes as well as the classic white shirt. One very interesting little detail was the ruffled ribbing bomber collars featured in a couple of the tops and jackets - A girly reimagining of a classic sportswear detail. Despite all of my excitement over the silhouettes and details of this collection, my favourite look was actually a very simple tan leather dress with side cut outs (since it's a piece I would love to wear).

Opening Ceremony cast professional dancers from New York City Ballet alongside their models to perform choreographed falls before pirouetting down the rest of the catwalk. According to designer Humberto Leon, the intention of this was "breaking the monotony of the runway". The collection's colour palette was based around neutrals (black, white, sand) with sensitively applied pops of sunny yellow, orange, red and blue. Giant metal buttons were a feature on many of the jackets, and there were also a few pom-pom embellished skirts and jumpers. One of the prints seemed almost inspired by giant abstract batik patterns. I actually wished this collection included a bit more denim, since that looks that did were quite cool: A pair of turn-up patchwork jeans paired with an orange coat, and a jacket and skirt co-ord. The orange jumper/trouser co-ord with white ankle boots and sunglasses was a particularly strong look. Not only that, but it was also my favourite from the show.


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